ONCE UPON A TIME – CAMBRILS
BY JENNIFER FIGUEROLA
LOCATED IN THE heart of the Costa Daurada, on the sandy coastline, Cambrils is in the Baix Camp region, surrounded by the magnificent slopes of the Llaberia and Prades Mountain Ranges. It has the classic ‘meeting of the land and sea’ effect, as this natural phenomenon is so marked and stunning. It is the status quo, yet has always been so and will always remain so – a definitive fact.
There is evidence of human activity dating back to prehistoric times, although it was the Romans who established the first settlement. After the fall of the Roman Empire, this settlement gradually fell into decline until the 12th century. At this time, the Moors/Arabs were driven out of Cataluña and came down the coast, settling in Cambrils. 
THEN IN 1229, troops from King Jaime 1 sailed from these beaches to reconquer Mallorca and the Balearic Islands from the Arabs. A feudal lord was deployed to control Cambrils, now ruled by The Crown.This involved soldiers being stationed there, and the construction of fortified walls and defensive towers for protection.
THUS CAMBRILS BECAME firmly established as a safe, thriving settlement.
This vitality was seriously threatened, when in 1640, during the Guerra dels Segadors, (War of the Reapers), Cambrils underwent an horrific 3-day siege, ending in their surrender.
The attacking army, under Felipe IV was far superior and eventual surrender by the resisting townsfolk was inevitable. Many were subsequently shot, and the town was devastated, with most of the walls also destroyed. In memory of this tragic time, the inhabitants hold an annual ceremony by the ruined walls, at the Plaça del Setge, (Siege Square).
IN THE 17TH century, the Port Tower was built and fishermen built their houses around it. Eventually the Harbour was built towards the end of the 20th century. The port in fact, is the most important symbol of the heritage of Cambrils.
With the advent of tourism in the fifties, it has a fantastic image as a holiday resort;
“a postcard brought to life, “
with the sea, fishing boats, water sports and restaurants all along the promenade, existing in the same space alongside the the lighthouse and the red-roofed seafront houses with the nine expansive beaches with clear blue sea.
THE PORT TOWER is now used as an art gallery, mainly maritime exhibitions. The red lighthouse, (Far Vermell), at the end of the wharf is great for watching the fishermen, and the sunsets are magnificent from this point.
The fishing boats come into port between 4pm and 5pm, when they bring in their catch, although not in May or June, the closed season for trawlers. Today there is a Marina, housing berths for over 400 crafts, and the Nautical Club with its superb restaurant.
Economically, Cambrils has always survived with its fishing and farming industries. It extends over kilometres of fields rich in farming and raw materials: olive oil, vegetables, fruit, which together with the fruits of the sea, have built up the tradition of what is the local gastronomy today.
Cambrils holds the well-deserved reputation of being the Culinary Capital of the Costa Daurada.
This picturesque town offers the full range of cuisine, blending tradition with many signature dishes, and is the only town in the province of Tarragona to have a Hotel and Catering School.
THE LOCALS REMAIN staunchly proud of their history, origins and perseverance, giving the town an integral ‘personality’, or ambience.
Wander through the Old Town, along the narrow streets and alleyways, never forgetting to look up and see the minute balconies full of brightly-coloured flowers, open windows with bedding hanging out to air, or washing blowing in the breeze.
Nowadays the settlement has grown to a population of 32,000 inhabitants.
Restaurants and hotels abound, yet the friendly, family atmosphere prevails, making it less spoilt than its brasher neighbour, Salou, more popular for 18-30 holidays and clubbing.
AS FOR ME, I have visited many times, for varying reasons:
- with my granddaughter for the beach, the swimming, the sea air;
- with my friends for a day out shopping, lunching and sight seeing;
- with my partner to the Orange shop, where they cannot do enough to help, yet the problems persist!;
- and recently to visit my friend, Nicole, staying at Hotel Tryp.
We nipped in for a coffee at a nearby wine restaurant, ‘Vora’, near to the port and got chatting with the owner, Pol Bargallò Font.
The global recession has certainly taken its toll on businesses, he informed me, shaking his head. I mentioned the many powerboats and vessels for sale in the marina, an extraordinary amount, which backed this up.
HIS PARENTS, QUIM and Dolors, had built up the beautiful restaurant and wine store over the last 36 years, where they serve a varied menu, available to read in Castellano, Catalan, English and French, and also sell serrano hams, wines, liqueurs and other local produce.
THIS YEAR HAS been very hard and the projection for the coming season uninspiring, yet they remain optimistic that they will be able to survive without too many staff losses.
The worst time for the business economically, he added, was the year of ‘The Euro’. Before the advent of the euro, tourists from other European countries would pop over to take advantage of the exchange rates, as would they themselves, if the rate was in their favour.
The Euro wiped out this practice with a resounding finality that changed the face of tourism as Europe knew it.
To cope, prices rose and many businesses, unable to conform to the pressure of inevitable and mandatory change, folded, leaving the survivors struggling to adapt.
Unsurprisingly, he was welcoming and willing to chat about how the restaurant had grown to the special place it now is, inviting me back at any time.
I HAVE ALSO VISITED the ‘Molí de les Tres Eres’, (The Three Era Mill Museum). Archaeological remains can be seen, a fully functioning flour mill and a set of 13th century bronzes. Great for history lovers, very visual and loads of written info if interested.
In fact Cambrils has something for everyone, except maybe groups of teenagers, who by definition are a breed unto themselves and have a different agenda.
No worries, they can nip next door to Salou and then everyone is happy.
Steeped in legend and history, the town has evolved into the unique settlement which welcomes old and modern alike to coexist in comfort and harmony.
Short URL: http://www.chroniccat.com/?p=284
Posted by 
